Campfire stories…Antarctica

Only 1% of the worlds population get to visit - I was one of them…

I’ve forever wanted to go to Antarctica for as long as I can remember… I was lucky enough to do a flight over the continent just after COVID. I spent that flight peering through the aircraft window at the vast white land below and was beside myself with excitement. I just knew that I was going to set foot on the 7th continent one day, it was a certainty.

I got that opportunity with Viking Expeditions on their 13 day Antarctic Explorer aboard Viking Polaris. Kerry and I left Townsville with so much anticipation and excitement and many catch ups on what to pack and what shoes we were taking – very important conversations!

We had a stopover in Buenos Aires for a few days to have a look around. I really like Buenos Aires, it such a melting pot of cultures, history and the best steaks! We did a city tour, may have done a spot of shopping and a cooking class… we’ve left the class armed with recipes and the skills to make empanadas, traditional corn and pumpkin stew and chipas. We also left with very full stomachs.

Our Journey Begins...

Then the day arrived! Our included flight to Ushuaia which is more affectionately known as the End of the World. I was beside myself when we arrived as we were shuttled directly to the Viking Polaris.. after an orientation, early access to our cabins and a bite to eat at the World Cafe we decided to check out a very cold and windy Ushuaia.. it was very charming and we strolled along the souvenir shops on the Main Street and took loads of pictures of the Bay Area and in anticipation and much excitement, returned to the ship ready to embark on the journey of a lifetime.

Crossing the Drake

Was it going to be the Drake shake or the Drake lake!!! Fortunately for me I don’t get seasick but I’m going to say it was definitely shaky..

The passage took a day and a half during which time we were educated by the expedition team and practised the getting into a kayak from a zodiac, picking up boots, used the gym, made dining reservations, settled into our beautiful cabins and kept busy.

First Encounters

The first icebergs and snow covered peaks appeared and the excitement escalated! It was perfect and a real pinch me moment… the blue skies and seas contrasting perfectly with the pure white icebergs and mountains.

Our first couple of days we zodiac cruised to see Melchior Island and Fournier Bay, we were up close with icebergs laden with sleeping seals, and the occasional scattered penguins… from the bow of the ship we all crowded around to see our first sign of whales… should I say alot of whales frolicking, playing, diving and bubble eating. I am whale obsessed so to see them up close was insane. All I wanted to see was whales breaching in front of me and I got my wish with some very acrobatic displays by these majestic humpbacks.

Setting Foot on the Ice

We had our first opportunity to set foot on the ice – I had goosebumps and a few little tears, I was finally doing it. Our first landings were on Yalour island and Damoy Point.. with walking poles in hand we ascended and wandered close to penguins, seals and birdlife. I can tell you right now not one person would ever get sick of seeing penguins waddling around you, they are the most photogenic and posable creatures and of course we have many many photos and videos of them strutting, looking at us and creating memories.

We cruised through the beautiful Neumayer channel at sunset providing many photo opportunities of the majestic snow capped mountains draped in the last light of the day followed by a stunning full moon.

The next day was a cruising highlight for me, we cruised through Recess Cove on a picture perfect day. Clear blue skies creating perfect reflections of snow covered mountains, pancake ice on the waters and of course whales frolicking in the bay- seriously looked like we were in a movie scene.

The Continent Itself

At last we had a landing on the actual continent, prior to this our landings were on the islands. We elegantly disembarked the zodiac and made our way up to the viewing point, bravely without our poles (or stupidly) as we very gingerly descended!!! At the top we had the most amazing views and I put my phone away for photos and just soaked it in. It really was a special moment and one I’ll never forget. After a while out comes the phone for the obligatory selfies, star jumps and Antarctic poses!!!

Our last few stops were at Mikkelsen harbour, Edinburgh Hill and Triangle point.. we saw old huts, ship wrecks, whale bones, plenty of lazy, sleepy seals and course playful penguins…

Kayaking Among Giants

The absolute highlight for me was when Kerry and I kayaked at Mikkelson harbour.. we were zodiac’d out to what felt like the middle of the ocean and with our training in the very back of our minds we transferred from the zodiac to the kayak- how we didn’t end up in the water I’ll never know!! It was typical Antarctic weather with winds, pelting snow and freezing cold but by god it was amazing… such a surreal moment and another experience I’d been so excited for! Well we managed to stay in the kayaks paddling around an island with penguins, seals and whales diving just 30 metres from the kayak which was both exhilarating and scary at the same time… it was a struggle to see at times with sunnies either covered in snow or eyes being stung by the snow fall but we made it back through the choppy waters and very ungracefully transitioned from the kayak to the zodiac where I’m sure I simultaneously kicked someone with my boots and head butted the throttle…

Life Onboard Viking Polaris during our Antarctica Cruise with Viking

Our time in the continent was coming to end as we prepared for the Drake again!! I’m excited to say it was pretty calm on the return!!!

In between these landings we attended many a session in the majestic Aula theatre learning about the race to the South Pole, whales, and what it was like for one of the specialists to live and work at the South Pole and McMurdo base.

We listened to informative daily briefings led by Berna and expedition team of what to expect for our upcoming days and lectures from the science team.

We shopped on more than one occasion at the Nordic shop on board buying clothing and beanies that will never be worn in North Queensland but fabulous purchases none the less.

The food was amazing! We dine on Italian at Manfredis which was my fave, the Restaurant and the World Cafe. Who wouldn’t want to sample the Lobster Tower and the dulce de leche crepes!!

I will add right here that Viking have you covered! They provided us with an expedition jacket with an inner jacket – and we get to keep them! Waterproof pants and boots are lent to us for the duration. All we needed to pack was our layers to keep nice and cosy underneath and casual comfy clothes for the rest of the time.

A Place Beyond Words

I’ve really tried to find one word to describe this experience and I truly cannot… there is no place on earth like Antarctica, no other feeling of fulfilment of breathing such pure air, seeing the innocence of the penguins frolicking, sleeping seals and the majestic humpbacks lazily swimming the freezing waters…

I’m not sure I’ll want to go back, I couldn’t replicate this perfect experience with a perfect travel buddy, perfect weather and the entire perfect Viking crew…….

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