The Mekong Exposed: 7 Things Lee Learned That No Brochure Will Tell You
1. Give Yourself a Game Plan for the Journey to Siem Reap
DAY 1: Townsville to Siam Reap
I boarded the flight in TSV and was happy that the bags were tagged all the way through and I was presented with all 3 boarding passes.
Lengthy transit in BNE, with current construction going on, and very limited food and drink options. It’s worth mentioning that if you’re not in Business Class, you may wish to do something else rather than head straight to the international terminal. I decided to eat at the domestic terminal as my bags were tagged and I had time up my sleeve. Others may choose DFO or even a trip to the city as an alternative, depending on the time of the transit. Business guests will still have lounge access, so it is probably less of an issue for those guests.
SQ flight was comfortable, with a 3x3x3 configuration. The staff were immaculately dressed and very friendly throughout the flight. I did feel that EK did offer a bigger choice on the entertainment system, but there was still a choice of 49 newer ‘Hollywood’ movies.
Changi remains one of the better airports to transit through. I was lucky enough to find an outlet that just happened to be showing highlights from the weekend’s soccer, so for me, the transit was not actually long enough!!!
SAI airport is new and approximately 40 minutes drive from the city. The old, closer airport was closed due to its proximity to the temples.
I hadn’t pre-booked a transfer from the airport to the hotel (typical travel agent, leaving my own holiday planning until the last minute!), so when I arrived at 10.30am, I decided it was too early to head straight to the hotel. I negotiated with a driver to take me there via Angkor Wat. I was lucky that the driver was also a tour guide and very knowledgeable about Siem Reap and the temples.
$35 USD would have got me straight back to the hotel. $75 USD got me that plus 4 hours of the driver’s time. $35 USD extra for a day ticket would have got me into all the local temples, but after 2 hours at the first, my travel companion was too hot, so sadly we headed back to the hotel without getting the full value of the day ticket.
2. Be Prepared for a Long Transfer, Then a Very Fast Embarkation
DAY 2: Siam Reap to ship
Bags needed to be out by 0630 and were collected and taken to the check-in area on time.
After breakfast, you check out of your room with the hotel and check in with the ship, who set up their own reception area at the back of the hotel. You mark your name off, give them your passport and Vietnam visa, which they hang on to. You’re then given a bag tag and a medical form.
You find your bag, attach the tag and complete the form, which you then take back to the tour staff and hand in using a provided sealed envelope.
The bus departed at 8am, with a travel time of 5.5 hours. There were two comfort stops en route, but these were not what I would put down as places of interest, just stops with toilet facilities.
We arrived at the ship at 1.30pm and were boarded within a minute or two of getting off the bus. We headed straight to the restaurant, where a buffet lunch was ready and waiting. While we ate, our luggage was being taken to the cabin.
During lunch, the cruise director explained the day’s activities, including where we would be for the afternoon tour, what time the safety drill started and that the life jacket in the room was to be brought along.
Each room comes with 2 radio receivers and new earphones. These are used when out and about on tours.
That afternoon, we headed out on a tuk-tuk tour to an island close by. The island is made up of 80% small farms, where most of the produce is really for self-survival. What little extra is produced is sold off for a little income.
The houses are built high on stilts due to the Mekong rising during the wet season. These houses would flood constantly if they were not built high enough.
We got the opportunity to try some of their fruit, including a “duck egg banana”, basically a fun-size banana, and some fruit that tasted like a mild grapefruit.
Back to the ship for a dress-up before meeting in the lounge pre-dinner for a captain’s reception, along with the tour director giving instructions on tomorrow’s activities.
Then we headed to dinner, which was à la carte style, with a 4-course dinner and complimentary drinks.
After dinner, a piano player offered entertainment for those who still had some energy. I had enough in me to belt out a poor version of Wonderwall before heading to bed.
3. Bring Comfortable Shoes, a Face Mask, and Be Ready to Get Involved
DAY 3: Angkor Ban Village
The boat docked at Angkor Ban village for a 1-hour walking tour (probably walking 800 metres in total). This is a Buddhist community where, again, all the houses are built on stilts for both the water levels and ventilation.
We had the opportunity to enter one of the houses after removing our shoes (glad I wore my non-holey socks today). The houses were 2/3 open plan, with the back partitioned off where the cooking was done. This room was much hotter than the rest of the house, so I can understand why they create a divide.
Heading back to the ship, there were 3 hours of downtime. The bars were open, as was the pool, or you could just relax in the cabin.
Lunch is a partial buffet (salads and soups), but you order your main dish with the waiter. The sweet and sour fish did not disappoint.
In the afternoon, we were back on a tuk-tuk for a tour of “Silk Island”, where the process of silk production is demonstrated from start to finish. From seeing the silkworms themselves to the spinning of the silk, then watching the ladies working the looms and producing scarves and skirts, it was fascinating to see the whole process.
The community is made up of 27 ladies who are keeping the ancient skill alive. After the demonstrations, there is an opportunity to purchase some of the wares in a shop on site, so you know the funds are going straight to the workers within the community.
After heading back to the ship and having dinner, a documentary was played in the lounge explaining how Pol Pot came to power and how he stayed in power with the Khmer Rouge, and how he killed 1 in 4 Cambodians between 1975 and 1979.
DAY 4: Koh Chen Village
We headed out to Koh Chen village, which is an island well regarded for its work with brass, copper and silver. When visiting dignitaries come to Cambodia, the King has a gift made of silver from this village to present to them. The men work the metals into shape before the ladies take over and work on the intricate patterns. We watched the production process before having the opportunity to purchase something from the on-site shop.
We then headed to the largest monastery in Cambodia, spread over 68 hectares. Both monks and nuns live here, along with a community of “lay men and women”. If people join the community, even if married, they must live separately and live a life of chastity. They can still see each other and have family come and visit.
We then explored the grounds for a short while before heading to the temple and receiving a blessing from two of the monks, which took about 7 minutes. A full blessing would normally take about 45 minutes. There was some time for photos before heading back to the ship.
This afternoon was an opportunity to “enhance your journey”, with the options of a sightseeing tuk-tuk ride, a sightseeing cyclo (a pedal trike), high tea at the WindRose, or a cooking class. I went with the tuk-tuk. The excursion was about an hour, driving around and looking at various sights, with 45 minutes at the Central Market. There was no stopping, just a drive-by of each of the sights. It was not an unpleasant way to spend an hour, but I would recommend a face mask, as the pollution and car fumes could be uncomfortable at times.
The ship is docked in Phnom Penh for 2 nights. Those who wish to can go out and explore the city at will, but the port gates are locked at 10.30pm. Those who come home after this time will have to pay security 1 whole USD to get him to open it…..
4. Expect Some Powerful and Emotional Moments
DAY 5: Khmer Rouge killing field
This morning was a tour to the Khmer Rouge Killing Fields. This was 1 of 343 such places around Cambodia. Not much, if any, of the original structures remain, just stumps and foundations of the old holding sheds and torture sheds. What you can see are the remnants of the mass graves. Some had 145 bodies, right up to the biggest, which contained 450 bodies. There is also a memorial building where hundreds of skulls are stored and displayed.
After the fields and a 40-minute bus drive, we went to the Genocide Museum. Here, you can see how the prisoners were kept, normally for no more than 3 months before being taken to the Killing Fields for execution. A heavy morning full of education and sorrow.
Back to the ship for lunch, and then this afternoon, a short tour of the Royal Palace grounds. Cambodia still has a constitutional monarchy, so, like Australia, the monarch has no real political power but is a figurehead of the country. He is very well respected by the population. Currently 74 years old and a practising monk, he is celibate, so there is no heir to the throne. He has nieces and nephews, so when he passes, a royal board will appoint the next monarch. They must be a minimum of 30 years old to be appointed.
The palace was well kept, with pagodas and temples galore. One of the buildings is known as the Silver Pagoda due to its silver floor. Sadly, this was covered with a carpet at the time of my visit.
Again, the ship was in port for the night. I walked the 1.5 km to the night market, which was mainly clothes stores, so after a 15-minute wander, I found a nice drinking hole overlooking the river for a cold beer before walking back to the ship. I felt completely safe doing this walk without a guide. The road was busy but easy to navigate.
5. Leave Room for Doing Absolutely Nothing
DAY 6: Sailing day on the river
Today had no planned tours other than the sail from Phnom Penh downstream towards the Vietnam border. This was approximately 100 km. A great day to book in at the onboard spa ($45.00 USD) for an hour’s treatment.
Or just sit on the sun deck and watch life on the Mekong, use the pool or small gym, do a puzzle, or relax and have a drink. The ship stopped mid-river while a crew member took a tender to the immigration office on the bank of the river. The ship stopped at 1pm to do this, and lunch was served at this time.
The ship got moved again at approximately 3pm and sailed for another hour to the border town of Tan Chau, where we moored offshore for the night.
This afternoon offered a cooking demonstration in the lounge. The evening after dinner was a quiz followed by karaoke. The staff did a great job getting everyone singing by reading the team scores out in reverse order, but making the whole group get up and sing as they announced the next result. By the time the winner was announced, everyone in the room had sung at least one song. Great night and a lot of fun for both guests and crew.
6. Be Ready to Experience Life Beyond the Tourist Trail
DAY 7: Tan Chau
After breakfast, we tendered to the town of Tan Chau and jumped on a single-seater rickshaw for a 10-minute ride to the Cai Dai Temple. This is a religion based on the teachings of Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. The temple was decorated to celebrate all 4 of the spiritual leaders/founders from each religion, along with brightly coloured dragons. The sexes are still separate in prayer, with ladies to the left and gents to the right. Shoulders and knees are to be covered. A scarf is NOT considered a covering.
Back in the rickshaw for another 10-minute ride to a mat-making/weaving factory. Here, the ladies work the machines, weaving mats and table runners using dried and cut plant stems.
A short walk back to the tender to the ship. Along the banks, you pass through real life on the Mekong, with working farms, fish farms and fishermen working their nets, as well as barely standing houses and rice-processing facilities.
The afternoon saw a towel-folding demonstration and free time to enjoy the pool, gym or bar, or have a nap.
The evening entertainment was the crew talent show, a fun night that saw the cabin staff take the win with a drag show, miming and dancing to a couple of well-known songs, narrowly beating the bar crew, who sang along to a one-stringed guitar.
DAY 8: The Markets
After a short cruise down the river, approximately 20 km, we arrived at Sa Dec. Another tender takes you to the town, where we walked through the food market selling fresh produce, live fish, chicks and ducks, and meat, including rats. An interesting market and confronting for some of the group, with some walking back rather than through the entire market. Clients need to be aware that they will see and smell things that are far from Western standards.
After the market, we walked through the “Lover’s House”. This was the inspiration and setting for a French book that was adapted into a movie of the same name about a local Vietnamese man who fell in love with a French girl. A modern-day Romeo and Juliet story of forbidden love, as his family had already arranged his marriage.
Back on the boat for lunch before heading back out for a short walk around the town, showing the French architecture and Catholic Church, and watching a rice paper-making demonstration and visiting a candy shop. There were a couple of tasters along the way, with 20 minutes of shopping time to grab a souvenir or two.
Back on the boat for lunch before heading back out for a short walk around the town, showing the French architecture and Catholic Church, and watching a rice paper-making demonstration and visiting a candy shop. There were a couple of tasters along the way, with 20 minutes of shopping time to grab a souvenir or two.
A local Vietnamese music and dance troupe entertained us before transitioning into the captain’s farewell cocktail party, where all the crew were presented and applauded for their amazing efforts over the last week.
During the turndown service, everyone received the statement of account, which can be paid in USD, Dong or by credit card. Unlike ocean cruising, the onus is on the client to go to reception and pay their bill. This will not be an automatic card charge.
7. The Little Details Are What You’ll Remember
DAY 9: Disembarkation day
Bags are to be outside the room by 0630, which just happens to be when the restaurant opens.
You have access to your room until 0740, so you can return, freshen up and gather your backpacks. All guests gather in the lounge and disembark in groups onto the waiting buses for a 90-minute drive to Ho Chi Minh City. An uneventful drive, mainly along the highway.
The bus stopped at the Le Méridien Hotel, arriving at 10am. Those staying the night seemed to get early access to their rooms, while those transferring to the airport were collected at 12pm, so there were 2 hours to kill. I chose to go for a wander to the Opera House, approximately a 15-minute stroll away.
The drive to the airport took about 40 minutes through the chaotic city traffic.
The airport itself was a good size. The check-in and immigration process was easy enough, but clients must show their visa again on departure, so don’t throw it away.
The shops were just souvenir outlets that seemed to repeat themselves every 25 metres, along with a couple of food outlets. The airport is OK, but certainly no Changi.
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