Join Liam and Jo as they journey with Viking on a once-in-a-lifetime discovery of Ancient Egypt. They will be adding to this blog post each day of their trip, so stay tuned.
Day 1 – Cairo
We arrived at the Sheraton on the Nile at about 1pm. The journey from Townsville took about 31 hours straight of travelling. It made for a long day, but as soon as we caught sight of our first pyramid on the descent into Cairo, the excitement took over. Cairo has always been on my bucket list, with so many modern-day concepts originating here along with their impressive engineering feats. Jo and I decided to push on until about 7pm rather than sleep out the excitement. We were greeted by Viking and briefed before we ventured by ourselves to the Cairo tower. This was once the biggest concrete structure in the world. If you are like me, a 360-degree view of the city you are visiting is the best experience you can do to get your bearings. We were able to get our second glance of a pyramid from here in the distance. From here, I was able to gain an appreciation of just how big the Nile is and how busy it can be. The greater Cairo area is home to one-third of Egypt’s population, which our guide informed us has now reached 122 million. Following our tower visit, was a walk to an early mixed grill dinner at EL Kabahgy. The traditional dish is served with Egyptian bread and the best hummus known to man. Walking around, I never felt threatened or unsafe, in fact, quite the opposite. The Egyptian people are extremely friendly and welcoming. They also appreciate when you try to learn their language.
Tip of the Day: A tip here is to learn a little before you come, Arabic is hard! I then crashed as the sun was setting on the Nile at around 7:30pm.
Day 2 – Laying the foundations
The tour started with a welcome and run-through of the next 12 days, including the optional extras. Our program directors are both fully qualified Egyptologists who know their stuff and know how to run a quality tour. Viking then split our group of 50 into two, which helps with group size and transport comfort before heading to the Muhammad Ali Mosque.
No, this isn’t a boxing story; Muhammad is credited with kick-starting the new Egypt after coming from the Ottoman Empire. If you have been to Turkey, you will know all about the Ottomans’ reign. In fact, the Mosque felt very similar to the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. This mosque is situated on top of a hill and is a beautiful building with so much Egyptian history attached to it. I really enjoyed learning about the Islamic religion and traditions with uninterrupted views of Cairo.
We then ventured to the Egypt Museum. If this is the standard the new Museum being built is going to be out of this world. I can’t remember the number, but it was something like 100,000 items of Pharaonic antiques which, if you spent a minute in front of all of them, you’d be in there for almost a year. I spent 3 hours in the museum and feel like I ran out of time. Sherine, our program director, talked us through identifying the statues and workmanship from the different ages before we were let loose. We tried to weave our way through the hieroglyphics, tombs, carvings, mummies displays, and Tutankhamun’s jewels. Seeing the golden Mask of Tutankhamun’s was surreal, but so was 200 plus meters of three high tombs. Tutankhamun’s carvings and workmanship, the attention to detail on his tomb, and the fact it was solid gold show how advanced Egypt was. You do have to stop and remind yourself this wasn’t done yesterday.
After the morning, Jo and I ventured out for another mixed grill on the Nile before joining the evening tour through Cairo’s oldest Bazaar. Think the busiest mall you have ever been to, throw out order, add cars and motorbikes and top that with some of the best one-liners from shop owners. It makes for a unique experience! We weaved our way through multiple mosques before finding our dinner reservation, which was situated on top of a hotel in the heart of the Bazaar. Great way to finish the day.
Tip of the day – You’d think USD was the national currency here; have multiple ones, you’ll need them.
Day 3 – Ancient Wonders
This has to be one of the best days I’ve ever had traveling!! It’s not often you visit an ancient wonder of the world. Only about an hour’s drive through the countryside is the Sakkara Step Pyramid. This is the oldest pyramid and the one that will leave an impression on me that I’ll never forget.
The day started below ground. I felt like I was back in the Cu Chi tunnels when I headed 2 stories underground to the tombs. I took my time to look at 2000 BC stories in Hieroglyphs under tons of sand. We then made our way to the surface to observe the Sakkara above ground before learning how and why the pyramid was made. The Pyramids aren’t just special today; they were something 12,000 Egyptians wanted to be a part of to etch their name in history. The way they built the pyramid was mind-blowing, almost impossible to believe. We are talking about millions of stones, jigsawed together, over 21 years, to build a structure over 200 feet which has stood the test of time.
We then headed to a local carpet-making factory that has transformed one of the poorest suburbs in Cairo into a production powerhouse. We spoke to the family and made our way to lunch before visiting the largest pyramid. The Giza pyramid. Besides Giza, there are another 8 pyramids; however, the main attraction is Giza, its son, and grandson. To give perspective on size, the stones at the foundation were taller than me. Again you find yourself questioning how this was done despite being told by our Egyptologist. The stones fit so tight you literally couldn’t put a 5-cent piece between them. We took the token tourist camel ride and a picture in front of the 3 main attractions which was a highlight!
The GEM will open soon and will be the centrepiece that connects the entire area. A local billionaire has taken it upon himself to make the site green to better preserve the Pyramids. This experience is only going to get better. If all this wasn’t enough, Viking then rounds out the day by taking you to the Sphinx where you can get a series of photos with this and the pyramids as your background.
Day 4 – Luxor & Boarding Viking Ra
I thought today would be a down day after visiting the pyramids. I was wrong. Viking’s tour just got better.
We started the day with an early charter flight down to Luxor where we were bused straight to Karnak temple. Put this down as a must-see! – wow! This was my unexpected gem. It’s a place that I’m sure I’ve been told about but for whatever reason I hadn’t done any research or looked up any photos. Again, you could spend the whole day here admiring or scratching your head at what must have been Egypt’s first Hieroglyphic encyclopaedia. Easily the best we’ve seen so far. Pick a month other than summer as the whole temple is outdoors with a lack of shade.
From here, we made our way to the ship for our first Viking lunch and to check into our rooms. Viking Ra is an impressive ship and feels brand new while having Viking’s classic Scandinavian style!
After settling in, we were off again to the temple of Luxor, the home of the poorly traded obelisk. The temples differ from each other, having their own unique points which are stopping me from getting templed out. Here we saw huge statues of Ramesses II, the third ruler of the Nineteenth Dynasty, and the great pharaohs of Ancient Egypt. His passion for building temples like this one had Jo and me in awe.
At this point in the trip, our conversations with fellow travellers are going past the “where are you from?” stage. This is one of the best parts of traveling in a group. Meeting people from all over the world and getting friendly. It’s also a great spot for recommendations of where to go next!
Tip of the Day – Do your research on the places and temples on this trip.
Day 5 – Up for the unexpected
Today was meant to be the day of the hot air balloon over the Valley of the Kings. Unfortunately, the high winds had stopped us from going.
So after the 4 am false start, we went to the temple of Qena. April is the perfect time to go here as Viking Ra can sail up to Qena from Luxor, avoiding a 2-hour bus drive. Qena isn’t on the main temple highway which means two things. First, we were police-escorted to the door, sirens and all – Qena doesn’t get a lot of tourists so they ensure we’re taken care of and have the right of way in traffic. Second, we were the only group there. Having an Egyptian temple all to yourself is pretty special.
A couple of unique points about this temple. You won’t find any reference to Cleopatra anywhere else except here; it’s also where the zodiac was stolen by the French. It’s also the only temple with so many colours still intact. We got back to the ship and had the afternoon off. This is probably the first time we had the ability to sit, relax, and enjoy the Ra. Viking set sail back to Luxor while Jo and I sat back in the spa with a cocktail and enjoyed the afternoon cruise on the Nile.
Day 6 – Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut’s Temple
We have hit the halfway mark of our Viking tour. By now, all crew know each passenger by name and their drink order. Today was the day we went to the Valley of the Kings. Another highlight! Firstly, it’s incredible how they even found this place! From Luxor, you drive about 20 minutes into the valley surrounded by limestone/sandstone mountains. The bus clicked into low gear a few times so you can only imagine the Egyptians and archaeologists getting here all those years ago. Once you get to the burial site, you are met with an uphill maze of tombs. I’d urge you to take a second and look at a 3D map to get an appreciation. Our pass allowed us to enter three tombs plus Viking includes the tomb of Tutankhamun. The first tomb we went to was Seti I. This is about 4-5 stories down. The entire passage down is covered with Hieroglyphics, including the roof and all pillars. Eventually, you get to the bottom where the body would have been and the treasures held. It’s uneven and awkward but our new 77-year-old Kiwi friends got down and up, so it’s very doable if you take your time. Most tombs are also not as big as this one. So take your time to look around at all the chambers! We probably rushed our time thinking they were all as big as each other. We then visited another 4 chambers including Tutankhamun’s. His is actually the smallest, and the tomb contained his mummified body. From here we went to Hatshepsut’s Mortuary Temple. Talk about impressive! The temple is chiselled into the limestone mountain. The presence of this place stands out with the statues on either side. We ran up the Egyptian rocky stairs before taking in all the Hieroglyphics. By now, you’d think you were over temples! I’m not, I haven’t got that feeling from others around the boat either. The stories from days 1 through to 5 are starting to connect, which is bringing the whole tour together. It’s very clever how Viking has designed this trip.
Day 7 – Exploring Esna: Markets, Culture, and Cuisine along the Nile
Today, we got some downtime for the first time this trip as we cruised further south down the Nile. The morning started with either a city tour of Esna or a visit to the Ancient Temple of Esna. We chose the city tour. In my mind, I thought Egypt was a pretty established country, certainly not third world. However, what I have seen is they are still very much a developing nation. Esna still has houses made out of mud and bricks, dirt roads, and we even saw a man ironing with an old-school iron taken straight from the fire and pressed on the clothing using his mouth to spray the water. After the walk around the town, we went to the local markets for the chance to buy a Galabeya for the Viking Egyptian night. This was also the market to buy anything made out of alabaster. Although there is a lot of poverty and a lot of in-your-face haggling, you never feel unsafe. Again, no one is trying to pick your pocket; it’s just not worth it for them. Viking also has a private security guard, which is required from American tour agencies, who stands with the group the whole time. He keeps an eye from the back of the group, but other than telling a few kids or persistent sellers to go away, I didn’t really see him do much. Even when we split up, I still didn’t feel unsafe, and for the most part, the Egyptians are friendly and just trying to make a dollar. After the quick trip around town, we were welcomed on board for a sail away cocktail, before learning Hieroglyphics and a lesson on cooking falafel. The wheelhouse tour was also today, with the captain confirming he uses no sonar, radar, or sounders; they just know the Nile so well they can skipper through it, adjusting for seasons and channel movements. The night was all about showing off the Egyptians’ food and is the first time you really didn’t have a choice of western food. This was the best meal by far. We had all the local starters, mains, and desserts before heading upstairs and being treated to an Egyptian/African traditional dance. This was fun, interactive, and upbeat, so it made for a really good night and great way to finish the day.
Day 8 – Exploring Aswan: High Dam and Nile Adventure
Waking up in Aswan is easily the cleanest and best-looking town we have been to, including Cairo. One group had an early start to go to Abu Simbel while we went straight to the Aswan High Dam. Some refer to this as the fourth pyramid of Egypt because of what was accomplished. It’s interesting to see how the high dam and the former dam were constructed. Apparently, there are no crocodiles where we have been sailing, but they are still above the dam. Not that we saw any. We then made our way down to the Nile again to do a scenic sail in a Felucca. While the start of the sail was really pleasant, a sandstorm started and we really started to pick up speed on the way back. To Heba’s credit, she pulled the pin on the sail and instead asked for a motorboat to take us back. It was interesting transferring boats on the open water with most people on board not really moving as well as they would have in their 30s. Jo and I played crew as we helped with the transfer onto the boat, and then, because the Nile was now rough, we had to assist everyone in getting off the boat. A few laughs later and we were back on land. Again, I take my hat off to Heba here from Viking who used her experience and got us out of that sailboat before it got dangerous! The group from Abu Simbel had also been delayed for about 6 hours to get back because it’s been too dangerous to fly. Viking doesn’t take chances, putting the safety of their clients above all else.
Day 9 – Island Treasures and Nubian Culture: Philae Temples and Village Exploration
Viking did a really good job today mixing up how we went on our day tour. We ventured upstream by motorboat through the first cataract (what we would call rapids) of the Nile to Agilkia Island. This is the home of the Philae Temples and only accessible by boat. What makes this island special, besides the views, is that the temple was moved to higher land after the high dam was built. You can actually see where the temple and island used to be from the current island. After walking around the 370 BC temple dedicated to Isis, we headed to the nearby Nubian Village. The Nubians are colourful people who painted their houses to match their personality. This was a refreshing change from the sandstone buildings we’d become accustomed to. We visited a home where I held their pet crocodile (not the big one). Twenty of the group then got henna tattoos in about 20 minutes, and then we visited a school Viking is supporting. Here, I was reminded why tourism is so important. I listened to the kids count and sing to 10 in both Arabic and English, which was pretty special. They also sang a few other songs which we got to participate in as a group. While Viking supports the school, we also had an opportunity to donate. After lunch, we cruised to the Kom Ombo temple. Now every temple has its own quirks, and this one was dedicated to Sobek and Horus (man with Crocodile head and man with Falcon Head). From here, we walked down in 42-degree heat to the air-conditioned crocodile museum. The museum houses about 20 mummified crocodiles. I can’t say I thought I’d see anything like it in my life and it was a really fun way to finish the day!
Day 10 – Temple Adventures: Horus Temple by Horse and Cart
We’ve done buses, boats, planes, sailboats, and now it was time to venture to the temple by horse and cart. This was hilarious. Some of the carts had passed their use-by date, with one couple in the group needing a swap-out at Edfu’s temple (Dedicated to Horus). I did start to wonder where we were going at one stage when our driver hooked a right down the main road as we watched the rest of the group continue down the Nile. Anyway, safely, all roads lead to Horus. This temple was hidden for longer so it’s in much better shape. The statues of Horus are about double my size and almost completely intact. It was definitely saving the best-preserved temple for last. I was in control on the ride back, where we have now set sail back to our departure destination of Luxor. We had one final sunset cocktail to say goodbye to the ship. Viking staff take such good care of RA. In my morning coffee, I watched a team of 6 literally wipe down every pole of the shade cloth, loosen bolts and grease them, and then dust all couches on the sun deck. This happens in both the morning and evening so the ship is presented in the best possible light at all times. The staff have been amazing and the team leaders are obviously helping and teaching their colleagues. Viking runs a really tight show which made it really easy to partner with them for our charters next year.
Day 11 – Farewell to Egypt: Reflections and Mummy Encounters
Day 12 – Jordanian Welcome: A Day of Transitions and Immersions
. When you book this with Viking they do everything for you. That is the 3:30am wake up call (despite us not asking for one), the transfer to the airport, being hand-held through check-in as well as customs and immigration by another Viking representative, the meet and greet in Amman, the visas for Jordan, and being handheld through the process, and then being met by our guide once our bags were collected.
Day 13 Discovering Ancient Treasures: From Mount Nebo to Petra
I started today off with an early morning swim (it’s more like a float) in the Dead Sea. Pretty handy staying at the Movenpick where you literally don’t have to leave the resort to do this. From here we went straight to Mount Nebo, famous for God showing Moses where the promised land is. If you Wikipedia Mount Nebo, it also says this is the resting place of Moses. Fuad was saying this is unconfirmed but based on the six monasteries surrounding the Mountain, this was a significant place. It was a clearer day today, so our view of Jericho, Jerusalem, and Bethlehem was much clearer. Inside the Church of Byzantine, we were introduced to the way mosaics were used. That is, they were more than just art. The Byzantines’ mosaics were all about the stages of civilization, but other mosaics were used as an early map highlighting the trade route, directions in general, or where to look for potential dangers. Considering how important these pieces of art were for ancient civilizations, it’s any wonder that the government stood in to save this dying craft in the ’80s.
This was highlighted in the next stop where we visited a mosaic school/manufacture. This place, and probably others liked it, are government-backed and sponsored by international companies like DHL so that they can keep this skill alive. The job creation and economic benefits from this are obvious. After a morning of history and culture, it was now time for the local cuisine. I am quickly figuring out this is Fuad’s specialty. We had maqlouba, which is a slow-cooked chicken and rice dish, but the best chicken and rice dish you have ever had. I highly recommend if you visit Jordan, but you have it home-cooked! Now the bus was full, we ventured to Petra. This was possibly the quietest three-hour journey with everyone sleeping in the bus and resting from a massive day ahead exploring the lost city.
Day 14 The lost Nabataean city of Petra.
Inspired?
Join us on one of our exclusive hosted departures in 2025
