Beyond the Blue Domes of Santorini - What Lee Discovered Aboard Emerald Azzurra
From the Acropolis and blue-domed Santorini to the battlefields of Gallipoli, Lee Wright discovers why travelling aboard a 100-guest luxury yacht can offer a very different way to explore the Mediterranean.
There is something quite special about arriving at a Greek island from the sea.
Long before you step ashore, the destination begins revealing itself: whitewashed villages appear on hillsides, ancient forts dominate rocky ridges and tiny harbours come into view. On a vessel carrying no more than 100 guests, the experience feels far removed from that of a traditional large cruise ship.
My journey aboard Emerald Azzurra combined some of Greece and Türkiye’s best-known destinations with several unexpected discoveries, and began with a long journey from Townsville to Athens.
From Townsville to the Acropolis
Athens produced another pleasant surprise. I had prepared myself for a lengthy arrival process under the EU’s new Entry/Exit System, but the process of queuing, scanning my passport, having my photograph taken and fingerprints recorded was completed within roughly 25 minutes of landing.
Soon afterwards I was heading towards the Novotel Athenes, watching the mountains and suburbs come into view along the way. The hotel room was comfortable and functional rather than luxurious, but the rooftop terrace, bar and pool, complete with views towards the Acropolis, more than compensated. After almost 30 hours on the move, an early night was welcome.
Walking Through Ancient Athens
Athens rewards comfortable shoes.
My organised city tour began with the Acropolis, where the final approach becomes increasingly uneven and rocky. Guests with limited mobility may find the climb challenging, but reaching the top and seeing the Parthenon emerge makes the effort worthwhile.
We spent around 90 minutes on the hilltop before continuing past landmarks including the National Garden, the stadium that hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896, the Temple of Zeus and Parliament.
I opted for the extended visit to the Acropolis Museum, one of the highlights of my time in Athens. Its lower level incorporates an excavated archaeological site beneath raised walkways, while the upper floors explore the history of the Acropolis and Parthenon.
The following day I explored independently, walking through Plaka and revisiting many places seen from the bus. It proved how manageable central Athens can be on foot. By the time I returned to the hotel, I had covered around six kilometres.
Then it was time for the main event: Emerald Azzurra
Welcome Aboard
A taxi ride of around 30 minutes and €30 took me to the port. After passport checks, baggage tagging and security, a shuttle bus carried passengers across the working dock directly to the gangway.
Stepping aboard set the tone immediately.
Passengers were welcomed into the lounge with Champagne, while check-in was conducted in small groups to avoid queues. With formalities complete, all that remained was to settle in and enjoy the yacht.
And “yacht” really is the appropriate word.
Emerald Azzurra carries a maximum of 100 guests in 50 suites, creating an atmosphere markedly different from a large cruise ship. Suites have generously sized bathrooms with walk-in showers, twin or queen bedding, plentiful storage and enough space beneath the beds for luggage. The television provides entertainment as well as information about the day’s programme.
Meals and drinks were included. Breakfast and lunch were generous buffets in the main restaurant, while dinner was à la carte. The Amici Lounge became the social heart of the ship, hosting port presentations, evening entertainment and pre- and post-dinner drinks.
Elsewhere were quieter spaces, outdoor decks, a small gym, spa facilities, a café-style eatery overlooking the aft pool and, one deck above, a hot tub and bar. When conditions permit, the yacht also has a marina platform from which its collection of water toys can be launched.
But the real attraction is where a yacht of this size can take you.
Nafplion: An Unexpected Walk by the Sea
Our first port was Nafplion, reached by a 15-minute tender.
Dominating the landscape was a huge fort running along the mountain ridge. Rather than take an organised excursion, we wandered through town and eventually discovered the old quarter with its narrow alleyways, cafés and atmospheric main square.
One of the day’s best discoveries was a pedestrian path following the shoreline around the peninsula. With cliffs on one side and water on the other, it offered beautiful scenery and comparatively few other walkers. The alternative was climbing some 990 steps towards the fort. On this occasion, admiring it from below seemed an excellent compromise.
Milos: A Port Where a Tour Pays Off
Milos was another tender destination.
Close to the port was a small whitewashed town and hilltop church, easily explored independently. After about an hour of wandering and a drink at a waterfront café, however, I was ready to return aboard.
In hindsight, this was one destination where I would have booked a tour. There simply wasn’t as much to explore around the immediate port area on foot.
That itself became one of the useful lessons of the trip: some ports reward independent wandering, while others are considerably better experienced on an organised excursion.
Santorini: Every Bit as Spectacular as the Photographs
Then came Santorini.
Even sailing into the caldera is an experience, with its white villages seemingly clinging to the cliffs high above the water.
I joined an included island tour visiting Akrotiri, Oia and Thira. At Akrotiri we explored the remarkable archaeological site, walking along covered boardwalks while our guide explained the history of the ancient settlement.
Oia delivered exactly the Greece of the imagination: brilliant white buildings, blue-domed churches and views seemingly designed for photographs. It was also extremely busy.
My tip? Spend a few euros in a café or bar with a view. You can enjoy the scenery and capture photographs without constantly battling the crowds.
Thira provided free time for lunch, shopping or simply taking in the views across the caldera, before using the cable car to descend towards the tender port.
Sailing away after dark was unforgettable. The sunset faded and lights gradually appeared across the villages perched high above the water.
An Unplanned Discovery in Patmos
Weather changed our plans and brought an unexpected visit to Patmos.
The island offered the Cave of Revelation and a hilltop monastery, along with three 500-year-old windmills, one still operational. From the elevated sites there were wonderful views across the island.
Sometimes an itinerary change produces exactly the sort of surprise that makes travelling memorable.
Lemnos: The Unexpected Gem
If Patmos was an unexpected stop, Lemnos was an unexpected favourite.
This was somewhere that felt like a working Greek community rather than simply a tourist destination. Local cafés were busy, everyday shops sat alongside a scattering of souvenir stores and the pedestrianised main shopping street was shaded by vines.
Above town sit the remains of an old fort. It’s a fairly steep climb of about 20 minutes, but the reward is magnificent views across the town and port.
Back at sea level, a cold beer and plate of calamari provided an equally memorable reward.
Gallipoli: A Morning to Remember
From Çanakkale came the most emotional excursion of the journey: Gallipoli and Anzac Cove.
The bus journey to the peninsula took around an hour, with our guide providing historical background along the way. We visited the Anzac ceremonial area, Anzac Cove, Lone Pine Cemetery and a Turkish cemetery, as well as remnants of trenches where opposing front lines were at points said to have been only metres apart.
It was a sobering morning and, particularly for an Australian traveller, a place for reflection.
Kuşadası and the Wonders of Ephesus
Kuşadası offered one of the great advantages of small-ship cruising: we could dock alongside rather than tender.
The town is also the gateway to Ephesus, and the ancient city proved a highlight. Streets, homes, fountains and civic buildings reveal the remarkable scale of the settlement, culminating in the reconstructed façade of its famous library.
Our excursion continued to a handmade carpet workshop, where we watched carpets being woven before sitting down to a Turkish lunch accompanied by local dancers.
Kuşadası itself was worth exploring afterwards, with shops, cafés and a medieval castle accessible from the mainland via a pedestrian causeway.
As the ship departed, the castle and sea provided the backdrop to one of the best sunsets of the voyage.
Mykonos Saves One of the Best Until Last
For the final stop, Mykonos delivered another quintessential Greek island experience.
Whitewashed buildings, contrasting coloured doors and shutters, stone walkways, historic windmills and a maze of narrow streets make simply wandering around worthwhile. Traditional waterfront restaurants sit comfortably alongside high-end boutiques from international fashion houses.
Rather than continually tender between shore and ship, we stayed ashore, enjoying lunch and wine overlooking the sea before moving on for drinks around Little Venice. Some bars here have balconies hanging above the water, making it an ideal place to watch the island go by.
For the final stop, Mykonos delivered another quintessential Greek island experience.
All too soon, it was time to return to Emerald Azzurra for our last night aboard.
The Verdict: Would I Sail on Emerald Azzurra Again?
In a heartbeat.
The yacht experience isn’t simply a scaled-down version of cruising on a large ship. It has a personality of its own.
With no more than 100 guests aboard, the crew quickly got to know passengers and their preferences. Disembarkation was fast, smaller ports became accessible and a natural camaraderie developed among guests as everyone shared stories from their days ashore.
There are trade-offs. You won’t find the theatres, endless restaurants or large-scale entertainment of a traditional cruise liner. Instead, Emerald Azzurra offers intimacy, destination-led travel and the feeling of being aboard a private yacht rather than a floating resort.
For me, it had everything I wanted from a cruise holiday, combined with the ability to visit smaller ports and experience destinations in a more personal way.
And after sailing through the Greek islands this way, going back to a ship carrying several thousand passengers may feel very different indeed.
I look forward to getting you on board soon.
– Lee
